In the shows and films that come out of Japan, the country's feudal history comes out as a captivating story of ambition, honour, and struggle. From horror to period dramas and much more, Japan's long history never fails to seep into the narrative. Historians, adventurers, and storytellers have long been enthralled with it, but few have done so with the vividness that James Clavell achieved in his epic novel, "Shōgun." The story blends historical fact and fiction against the turbulent backdrop of the Sengoku or "Warring States" period, drawing inspiration from real-life places, people, and events.
Based on the book, the TV series "Shogun" is set in 16th-century Japan and follows Lord Yoshii Toranaga, a daimyo, and John Blackthorne, an English sailor caught in Japan's political turmoil. The series received acclaim for its production values, narrative, and historical accuracy. The 2024 adaptation won 18 Primetime Emmy Awards and was praised as the most successful single season in Emmy history. Following the mood that the series has set around the world, let's delve into the 5 notable samurai sites in Japan that had an impact on the Shōgun era.
Our journey begins on the misty shores of Usuki, a historical site in Oita Prefecture, where William Adams, the real-life counterpart of Clavell's main character, John Blackthorne, set foot in Japan. Known as Miura Anjin, Adams made landfall on Kuroshima, a small island off the coast of Usuki, in 1600. It was the time when a weary English sailor arrived on a distant land, ready to become the first Western samurai.
However, Usuki serves as more than a landing pad. It used to be the centre of the Bungo Province, an area crucial to Japan's initial contacts with the West. Overlooking the area is the formidable Usuki Castle, constructed in 1562. In addition to serving as a stronghold, it also serves as a reminder of the samurai era's power struggles. Walls would tell tales of intrigue, diplomacy, and war if they could speak.
Furthermore, Usuki is also well-known for its historic stone Buddhas, which serve as a calm reminder that Japan's spiritual legacy endured despite unrest in the country.
It wouldn't be unfair to say that the Himeji Castle is a work of art and not just a castle. Owing to its striking white walls, the structure is called the "White Heron Castle" and appears to be ready to take off into the sky. The only thing more stunning than the strategic significance of this UNESCO World Heritage site is how well-preserved it is as a castle in Japan. The opulent castles found throughout Clavell's pages in Shogun are based on this exact fortress.
During the Sengoku period, military architecture prioritised both aesthetics and defence. Himeji Castle is an engineering marvel of the samurai era, with its labyrinthine passages, secret escape routes, and multi-layered defences. Imagine it in its heyday, with the clang of armour and the whispers of power-hungry lords echoing through its halls, even though it may seem tranquil now.
An interesting fact about the castle is that it has not only been featured in Shogun; more than fifty movies have included it, including The Last Samurai. Unbeknownst to us, this "White Heron" was quite the movie star.
The man who ordered the construction of Nagoya Castle, with its towering walls and shining golden decorations, was none other than Tokugawa Ieyasu, the shogun who would later unite Japan. It's difficult to ignore the weight of history as you stand in front of this magnificent building. It is said that those golden shachihoko, or mythical tiger-headed carp, will keep the castle safe from flames. More than anything else, though, they represent the wealth and authority of the ruling class.
The magnificent architecture of Nagoya Castle reflects the aspirations of the period. The building of the castle was a component of a larger plan to consolidate power. Its imposing donjon, encircled by lush gardens and moats, is a striking reminder of the opulence of the samurai period.
Despite being extensively damaged during World War II, the original castle has been painstakingly rebuilt so that guests can still be in awe of its magnificence.
Matsumoto Castle is known as "Crow Castle" owing to its black walls, which stand in stark contrast to Himeji's immaculate whiteness. With its pitch-dark exterior, it appears as though it is prepared to spread its wings and soar into the stormy night from its perch atop the mountainous Nagano Prefecture. Constructed for combat, it is a shining example of Sengoku-era Japanese military innovation.
Matsumoto Castle was built differently, with a secondary donjon and even a moon-viewing room, demonstrating that even the most ferocious samurai could occasionally find peace and poetry. The story of Clavell in Shogun, as well as the essence of samurai culture, revolve around this delicate balance between peace and war.
Additionally, Matsumoto is one of the rare "hirajiro" (flatland castles) in Japan since it is situated on level ground as opposed to a hilltop or mountain like many other castles.
The Edo-Tokyo Museum is a must-visit for anyone seeking to understand the larger picture of Japan's feudal era, even though it is not a samurai stronghold. The museum takes visitors back in time to the Edo period, when the shogunate's centre was the thriving metropolis of Edo (modern-day Tokyo). You can practically hear the samurai as they patrol the streets and feel the pulse of the markets, thanks to its interactive displays and intricate models.
The displays in the museum provide insight into the social mores, political intrigue, and cultural transformations that moulded the Shogun era. The reason Edo served as the backdrop for so many significant plot points becomes more obvious the more you investigate.
It is curious to note that under the leadership of Tokugawa Ieyasu, Edo, a tiny fishing village at first, grew to become one of the biggest cities in the world.