“A world within a world.” Rudyard Kipling’s novel, “Kim,” may only be partly set in the majestic valley of Spiti, but there are barely any other descriptions that have surpassed his to become more accurate. At first, it may seem like he meant the valley’s lunar-like landscape, but an immersion into the lives of those who live in this cradle of beauty reveals how he meant much more.
Set in the northeastern end of Himachal Pradesh, the high-altitude Himalayan region has interested diverse kinds of travellers. While adventurers are drawn to the surprises of the rugged terrains, plenty make the journey to discover its unique natural beauty and, even more, come to uncover the history of “The Middle Land.” Even in October, when temperatures dip to minus degrees, the cafes run full and finding a room in one of the homestays or the few hotels becomes difficult. The main towns of Kaza and Kibber buzz with families, solo backpackers and bikers pouring in almost daily till the harsh winter begins mid-October.
However, the surge of tourists flocking to this remote part of the state has not been a simple stroke of luck. While the region’s spellbinding beauty is reason enough, continuous developments in the tourism sector have been a steady priority for the state government. Among the diverse initiatives, a major one is to improve access to the region, which is currently limited to routes emerging from Manali or Shimla. While the former route is currently under construction and includes a bumpy eight-hour-long journey, the latter takes more than a day, with an overnight haul in Kalpa.
“Tourism is the main source of employment here, second only to agriculture. We have over 200 homestays across Spiti Valley and Langza. This entire cycle of tourism supports the local economy, employing many. Our current initiatives are centred around enhancing accessibility to these remote areas. The government is already working on air connectivity, proposing a heliport in Rangrik. The Manali to Kaza route is under improvement by the BRO, and once connected, accessibility from Manali will increase. We’re also working on roads from Shimla to improve access,” says Rahul Jain, ADC, Kaza.
In addition, Jain also shares that an INR 370 crore project is underway to provide stable 24/7 electricity in Spiti, as the current supply in Kinnaur suffers from voltage drops. This project is expected to be completed in three to four years and will address a major barrier to tourism in Spiti.
"We have over 200 homestays across Spiti Valley and Langza. This entire cycle of tourism supports the local economy, employing many. Our current initiatives are centred around enhancing accessibility to these remote areas"
In Spiti, efforts go beyond legislation; the region has become a strong example of how public-private partnerships can improve local lives, helping residents create opportunities that support growing tourism. A recent initiative worth quoting is AkzoNobel India’s “Let’s Colour” project, which was carried out in three villages in Spiti: Komic, the world’s highest motorable village; Hikkim, home to the world’s highest post office; and Langza, known for ancient marine fossils.
Located at over 15,000 feet above sea level—similar to Everest’s base—these villages observe freezing winters, with temperatures dropping below -25 degrees Celcius. Among the problems villagers face during this harsh phase is the need to frequently repaint their homes in the iconic white, which is achieved by using limestone powder or chunna.
However, this year, the “Let’s Colour” project involved repainting these houses into their iconic white using the Dulux WeatherShield range of paints, which lasts longer and boasts a composition that shields the house from extreme temperatures.
Angchup Takpa, a BDC member of the Gram Panchayat in Langza village, says, “We handle our own house decorations and, due to cost constraints, sometimes use affordable materials like chunna. For example, if black paint is required, we might use engine oil from car servicing centres due to its affordability and similar colour. However, the company sponsored and provided professional painters, relieving locals from managing the painting themselves. This project also aligns with local customs, where white paint is predominant in Buddhist communities.”
The initiative also included repainting the historic Tangyud Monastery, which is usually a tedious and time-consuming process as the three primary colours—red, black, and blue—are derived from natural resources. Monk Chhering Chhepa says, “This monastery is supported by the nearby villages. The donations from the community during prayer gatherings are what sustains us. Beyond that, every year, when we paint the monastery, everybody from the villages participates in sourcing the three colours—blue, red, and black. The process is time-consuming and even takes months; for instance, to get the red colour, we process stone with fire until it reaches a yellow hue and the blue is derived from a rock found in the mountains.”
"If black paint is required, we might use engine oil from car servicing centres due to its affordability and similar colour"
Moreover, since the locals from these three villages depend on tourism for sustenance, the project also collaborated with Spiti-based artist Nawang Tankhe, who was tasked with creating colourful murals that illustrate the region’s unique beauty and culture. Tankhe’s designs not only captured Langza’s supremacy as a foremost stargazing spot in India but also highlighted the region’s native species, such as the vulnerable snow leopards, Himalayan ibexes and yaks.
While Spiti has always been on every traveller’s bucket list, given its wealth of culture and natural beauty, and initiatives are in full swing to harness this, the locals of these three villages confront grave problems that have always existed due to its remote location but have now been topped by over-tourism and climate change.
The most interesting part is that, as a visitor, one barely realises it as the locals always greet you with a big smile and a helping hand. Even though I could assume that life in such terrains is inevitably difficult, it was my chance conversation with a Hikkim native, Chhering, that I realised their everyday battles. She generously shared the most intimate details about her daily life with a smile as we sat side by side in the courtyard of the 14th-century Tangyud Monastery in Komic.
“Life here isn’t like in cities, where you can get by with little effort. We all have to work together to make a living. Some of us run small shops, while others help in the fields or offer services where they’re needed. Things have become more challenging than they already were due to unpredictable weather. The delayed snowfall and rain make it difficult for us as we rely on rain and the melted snow for water. Those who practice farming face severe problems. In times like these, we rely on a bit of ration from the government, do some odd jobs, or help each other out. The government now provides small aids, regardless of caste,” she says.
Takpa, who stays in Langza and runs a homestay-cum-cafe, says that such situations have only worsened and can soon lead to more serious consequences in the future. “The weather has changed significantly. Earlier, there was consistent snowfall of 8 to 10 feet every winter, usually starting in October, but now there’s a delay. This change affects our water sources, as we depend on snowmelt for our springs. Without sufficient snowfall, we could face a water shortage in the coming time,” he says.
In addition to this, the lack of resources and employment opportunities also pose hindrances. Takpa hints at the lack of proper institutions to upskill locals with diverse skills and notes the lack of art schools as an example. However, things are changing; and it is the villagers who are coming together to make it happen. A notable case is of mural artist Tankhe, who goes by @artinspiti on Instagram. Having gained his formal training in visual arts in Shimla, Tankhe could have easily settled elsewhere for a more lucrative career. However, as the only artist to come out of these villages, Tankhe returned with the dream to ensure that he wasn’t the only one.
“It is important for the younger generation to pick up more skills, as it opens more avenues of making a livelihood. There are many opportunities around Spiti for artists, but awareness is important. I have decided to start free workshops for school kids in Kaza’s free public library this winter. Many of them are excited for it, and I hope this evolves into something more concrete in the future,” he says.
While it is common for the locals of these three villages to relocate to Kaza to find employment, it is not uncommon to find more like him who are working towards making life in these villages more accessible and creating opportunities—even in the face of challenges such as inadequate funding. An inspiring case is of the local government school in Hikkim, which is also the only one, situated about a 15-minute hike from the village centre. Established in 1965, the one-room school now faces the grim reality of being shut down due to low enrolment—only five students (across primary and junior grades) in October 2024, to be exact—endangering the teachers’ jobs and the children’s education.
While the winter months observe a natural decline in the number of students continuing their education, given that they need to walk up to the school in heavy snowfall, the reason behind the low enrolment has also to do with the facilities and the available curriculum. Chhering Dolma, a Hikkim resident and teacher, says, “We still lack teachers for critical subjects like Math and Science, which are essential. If we had teachers for these, more parents would keep their children in the village school. Right now, without these core subjects, children struggle academically, and many parents choose to send them elsewhere—even though admission is free and we also offer mid-day meals. Full support for these subjects would greatly benefit the students, parents, and the entire community. Currently, we have three teachers, but one is retiring in January, so we’ll be down to two.”
Unfortunately, this school in Hikkim is not the only one. Schools in neighbouring areas like Lossar and Tashigang have also been dealt the same hand due to low enrolment. While five students are not ideal for running a school, any number of students in remote areas, such as Hikkim and its nearby villages situated at such an altitude, still counts. Dolma says, “In winter, with snow reaching up to five or six feet, small children can’t walk long distances. The government applies the same rules here as elsewhere, but the conditions in tribal areas are different. We have snow, wild animals, and no regular bus service.”
"Established in 1965, the one-room school now faces the grim reality of being shut down due to low enrolment—only five students (across primary and junior grades) in October 2024, to be exact—endangering the teachers’ jobs and the children’s education"
Despite such trials, the residents of these three villages bow before nature and fate with hands on their hearts, embracing whatever comes their way together.
One for all and all for one is a way of life across three villages, whether for big events or small and irrespective of scarce resources. Chhering says, “We help each other in whatever way possible, whether one needs extra food, wood for fuel, water, or even shelter—especially during difficult periods such as winter. Our way of life may seem simple, but it’s rich with purpose and harmony, grounded in the rhythm of our land, our families, and our shared customs.” It is in these ways that nature’s most crucial lessons are seeped into their daily lives, one that is beautifully captured in the obscure Native American proverb:
"When the blood in your veins returns to the sea, and the earth in your bones returns to the ground, perhaps then you will remember that this land does not belong to you, it is you who belong to the land."