The borders were a little crumpled but the zari work shined as though brand new. My mother's 30-year-old bridal Banarasi sari was soft against the skin of my palms, the deep magenta with its jade drape still as vibrant, the paisley in gold filigree bringing out a soft sheen synonymous with the fabric, just as when she wore it on her wedding day in 1994.

To identify an original Banarasi silk from a fake, you need to know what to look for. "We were taught to always check the reverse side. Look at the warps and wefts and a plain patch of silk almost 6-8 inches long on the pallu," my grandmother informed me sagely.

There are, of course, authenticity certificates you can ask for from sellers, and the GI tag is the most sensible way to go.

The fabric woven on a traditional handloom will have floats (skipped threads)on the reverse side, and there will be little imperfections, proving that it was woven by hand and marking it separate from machine-produced counterparts.

In Banaras or Varanasi, known to be the hub of the eponymous silk textile, you sit by the ghats steeped in spiritual solace, the amplitude of the aarti sounds filling you. You admire the culture, listen to old tales, and spin the yarn back to the roots of this ancient city, which is as old as the scriptures. When you see Varanasi, you learn how it gave birth to the fabric of celebration.

"Royalty," said Khushi Shah of Shanti Banaras when asked what comes to mind when you think of the fabric. "Banarasi silk evokes thoughts of luxury, intricate weaving, and deep cultural roots. Each sari is a work of art, often woven with gold or silver threads, featuring patterns inspired by Mughal architecture. Its lustre and drape make it a favourite for brides who want to embody elegance and tradition. Unlike other bridal silks, Banarasi offers a unique blend of heritage, opulence, and versatility," she added.

Throughout the centuries, the Vedic texts have referenced a golden cloth or "hiranya vastra" that is worn by the Gods. The sage Patanjali spoke of another superior cloth, calling it the "Kasika vastra" in the 2nd Century BC. In all the stories, the repeatedly mentioned sacred and special cloth is said to be the Banarasi silk.

The fabric of celebration, the Banarasi silk, is known for its timeless elegance and gorgeous zari work with traditional motifs and a well-documented history intertwining the fabric with its place of birth.

Jataka tales place the Kashi kingdom as a prominent cotton and silk production centre in the 5th and 6th century BCE. The cotton fabrics from Kashi were renowned for their fine weaving, smooth texture, and pristine whiteness.

According to literature from the Maha Bodh Society, which dates back over 2,000 years, Buddha's remains were treated with balm and wrapped in exquisite cloth woven in Sarnath, a place now selling some of the finest Banarasi saris.

The technique of hand-weaving the silk into the masterful saris that you wear is one of intense labour. The Banarasi silk saris are meticulously crafted on jacquard pit looms. The tana, or warp threads, are carefully stretched and held taut on the loom, while the bana, or weft threads, are positioned in a shuttle. As the shuttle glides back and forth, it interlaces the warp and weft threads, creating the intricate patterns and textures that define these exquisite saris.

However, with machine-made products cutting off time and labour intensity, the handloom weaving traditions have somewhat dwindled.

"Bunkar: The Last Of The Varanasi Weavers" is a 2018 documentary that covers the city of Varanasi and the plight of the weavers. The bunkars, or the weavers of Banarasi Silk, talk about how the power loom is the biggest threat to their craft. A finely woven sari that takes nearly three months to complete on a handloom could be replicated in merely a day in a power loom.

Recent demand resurgence driven by a growing appreciation for handmade, sustainable products has let the struggling weavers of Varanasi breathe a sigh of relief. "While the pandemic posed challenges, there's been a steady increase as people return to traditional, high-quality fashion for weddings and special occasions," said Shah. "We collaborate with traditional weaving clusters in Varanasi, where artisans have honed their craft for generations. Their expertise ensures each sari is a masterpiece. We are committed to supporting these artisans through fair wages and preserving centuries-old techniques," she said.

The appeal of Banarasi silk is not limited to bridal trousseau, as Shah points out. With more designers incorporating it into contemporary fashion and sustainable brands upcycling old saris into new outfits, the Banarasi silk remains steadfast in its enduring elegance.