In southeastern India, a vibrant fabric has thrived for almost 900 years, long before it was given its moniker in the 1600s—befittingly after the romantic seaside city of its birth. With its origins in present-day Chennai, "Madras checks" has transcended borders and encountered a glorious global trajectory that continues to adapt. As far back as the 12th century, Madras Checks were worn by the fisherfolk and peasant community of coastal Madraspatnam (later Madras) as a lungi or a local sarong.
Ajay Agarwal, a second-generation entrepreneur and the owner of RK Industries, which has exported authentic Madras checks to global brands, explains, "Madras checks is a miracle lightweight cotton fabric with a plaid design, perfect for the hot, humid climate of the city. Madras checks can be single or multi-coloured, symmetrical or asymmetrical, and big repeat or small repeat designs. 'Bleeding Madras' became a rage during the late '60s and early '70s; every time you washed this colourful fabric, it would bleed because of its hand-dyed nature, and the colours would change."
But much before "Bleeding Madras" was coined sometime in the last century, the fabric found its way to the Middle East and Northern/Western Africa in the 1300s and was known as "Injiri," meaning "real India."
"In fact, for centuries, African brides would have their gowns fashioned out of Madras checks for the added allure of a 'foreign' fabric," says Chennai-based heritage revivalist and influencer Shalini Muthukumar.
"Earlier, it would be available in primary colours like indigo, brick red, and turmeric yellow because only natural dyes were used. With the onset of the 16th century, Dutch, Portuguese, and British influences slowly found their way into and around the city. This led to the mass production of Madras Checks as the colonial powers saw an opportunity to export and commercialise this unique fabric."
But what makes it unique, setting it apart from the other universally available plaids? Agarwal explains its special weaving and manufacturing process to provide an answer.
"Authentic Indian Madras check is still woven in age-old power loom machines. Raw yarn in hank form is procured from various spinning mills. Traditionally, this yarn was hand-dyed in tubs, but given the requirement of colour fastness and other practicalities, it has now been replaced by mechanical dyeing. Next, warping is done on bamboo frames, one strand at a time. The process is done in the morning to avoid the hot sun. The yarn now goes through the process of sizing, where starch is applied with brushes and then burnished with bamboo sticks to give them a smooth, even finish for weaving. This also gives yarn strength to withstand the weaving process."
Agarwal adds, "Traditionally, this fabric would be washed in a local river or spring and dried on the shore. Given the environmental conditions, it is now washed in tubs and hung in bamboo sheds to dry. This fabric will continuously become softer as you wear it and wash it."
For centuries, African brides would have their gowns fashioned out of Madras checks for the added allure of a 'foreign' fabric
Madras Checks also has significant links to the United States, which purportedly began with the inception of Yale University in 1718. When the college was opening, they requested donations from wealthy philanthropists. Among them was Elihu Yale, who had previously served as President of Madras. When Yale was asked for a donation from the University that is now named after him, he sent them 417 books, a portrait of King George I of Great Britain, and several bales of Madras Checks that the school sold for a massive amount. This was when Americans first experienced the soft, handwoven weave of the fabric.
However, it took more than a century for Sears to advertise the product in its catalogue in 1897, giving it pride of place in American retail. It wasn't until the 1950s that William Jacobson discovered that an American brand could be crafted hinging on Madras checks. "Jacobson was a textile importer," explains Muthukumar. "He travelled to India to meet with Captain CP Krishnan Nair, a retired Army officer who helped establish the All India Handloom Board and began exporting Indian handlooms overseas. In 1958, he was instrumental in selling 10,000 yards of Madras checks at the cost of a dollar per yard to Jacobson, who in turn convinced Brooks Brothers to launch a range of garments for men and women with the fabric. Obviously, the fabrics bled colour, but their advertising agency Ogilvy turned it around by using the tagline 'Guaranteed to Bleed' as an assurance of authenticity rather than a defect."
Today, Madras Checks is used by brands worldwide, who have recognised its potential as a unique, sustainable handloom fabric that bridges a centuries-old tradition with contemporary aesthetics. "Madras Checks are often synonymous only with shirts or dresses now, but they shouldn't be," says Muthukumar. "They have been popularised as fabric for handkerchiefs in India and Africa, as well as headscarves and turbans, and of course, it continues to find its place among native lungi-wearers. But more importantly, Madras checks is synonymous with the sari today. Even South Indian brides don't hesitate to walk down the proverbial aisle in a colourful silk sari with Madras checks. This elegant, vintage design called paazhum pazhamum (milk and fruit) celebrates the symmetry of life in different colour palettes, embellished with a zari border. Vividly-hued cotton saris from Chettinad called 'kattam' (grid) also use the motif. This is the true success of this textile—not only to stand the test of time, but also to transcend cultures, occasions, and appeal to virtually everyone in some form or manner."