We were a couple of kilometres into the sea and enjoying a boat ride arranged by the Radisson Blu Resort Temple Bay, when the boatman pointed to a patch where the waves appeared to knock furiously over an obstruction.
In the split second between the movements of an advancing wave and a receding one, we caught sight of what we thought were dark slimy boulders. Gradually, we discerned more such formations spread over a large area.
These are the remains of the six submerged Shore Temples of Mamallapuram that surfaced briefly during the deadly tsunami in 2004, according to our boatman.
Lying around 60 km to the south of Chennai, Mahabalipuram (or Mamallapuram) is a reputed tourist town whose global attraction increased after UNESCO tagged the Group of Monuments as a World Heritage Site in 1984.
It is said that in the seventh and eighth centuries, Mahabalipuram was a flourishing port city ruled by the Pallava dynasty. Patrons of art and architecture, they encouraged the construction of finely carved rock-cut temples and other architectural monuments.
A tour of Mahabalipuram typically begins from the Shore Temple. Built at the start of the eighth century, the rock-cut temple lies on the beaches of the Bay of Bengal. According to legends, it was one of seven shore temples but what happened to the remaining six is unknown.
Interest in the Shore Temple was renewed after survivors of the deadly 2004 tsunami reported sightings of old structures and sculptures on the seabed when the water receded prior to the tsunami's appearance.
Explorations by a National Institute of Oceanography (NIO) team and members of the Scientific Exploration Society from the United Kingdom had already recorded evidence of ruins off Mahabalipuram when they carried out underwater explorations in April 2002. Although it has not been verified beyond doubt that the submerged structures are the six lost pagodas of the city, it is thought they were part of a port town that was swallowed by the sea many centuries ago.
After the tsunami, divers reported finding statuary such as an elaborately carved lion, a half-completed elephant and a stallion in flight, among other items.
Subject to natural erosion, the main Shore Temple frequently undergoes restoration and the work was ongoing during our August visit. However, tourists were merrily clambering over the remaining architectural ruins within the complex.
One among the Group of Monuments is the five chariot-shaped temples in the Pancha Rathas complex. These monolithic structures are interesting not just for how old they are but also for their style. Built in the seventh and eighth centuries, the temples were named after the five Pandava brothers and Draupadi. The very first structure is named after Draupadi and shaped like a thatched-roof hut from Bengal. The second, called the Arjuna Rath, is shaped like a Buddhist vihara. The one named after Bhima has a vaulted roof. In between them all are large statues of a lion, an elephant and a bull.
Then there are the stylistically unique cave temples locally known as mandapas. Located on the outskirts of the town, the sculpted Varaha Cave Temple dates back to the seventh century. The Tiger Cave was probably an open-air theatre and is another must-see attraction. Other popular mandapas include those dedicated to Ganesh, Krishna and Mahishasuramardini.
A monument you can see from the road is Arjuna's Penance, which is said to have one of the largest bas-relief carvings in the world. Its 27 m x 9 m panel supposedly contains more than a hundred sculptures. Two famous scenes depicted here come from the Indian epics: one from the "Mahabharata" shows Arjuna performing penance to appease Shiva, and the one from the "Ramayana" shows Bhagiratha praying to Shiva to allow Ganga to descend to the earth.
The curiously named Krishna's Butterball is a huge boulder that is precariously balanced on a rocky ledge but which has now become a merry selfie zone.
Mahabalipuram's character today is not only about history and old architecture. Its tranquil beaches and adventure sports activities are also big draws. Covelong (also known as Kovalam), a fishing village about 20 km away, is a favourite with surfers around the globe.
Lastly, if you have time to spare you can also visit the Cholamandal Artists’ Village 35 km away and the Dakshina Chitra Heritage Museum, which has a collection of 18 authentic historical houses with contextual exhibitions. Both of them lie between Mamallapuram and Chennai.
For South Indian food, visit Sri Ananda Bhavan for a variety of dishes including idlis, dosas, parathas, vadas, utthapams and thali options. The Hotel Guru is also a top pick for authentic Chettinadu cuisine, offering both vegetarian and non-vegetarian dishes. The menu features an array of traditional favourites such as dosas, idlis, vadas and various curries served on banana leaves for an immersive dining experience.
The Wharf Restaurant is an upscale dining establishment within the Radisson Blu Resort, Temple Bay Mamallapuram. Overlooking the Bay of Bengal, this restaurant offers a diverse menu featuring Indian cuisine, grilled meats, pasta dishes and delectable seafood options.
The Searock Restaurant is a vibrant spot offering an array of drinks and a menu filled with seafood, Indian and Chinese dishes. Guests can enjoy selecting live lobsters and crabs to be cooked while indulging in the treat for both the palate and eyes.
For a roundup of the best places to eat in Mahabalipuram, check out this Outlook Traveller guide.
The Handicrafts Shopping Zone is the best place to purchase a wide variety of locally made handicraft items, including carvings and artisanal wares. Visitors can find souvenirs at affordable prices while supporting local businesses.
There are plenty of hotels and resorts in and around Mahabalipuram. Besides the luxurious Radisson Blu Resort, Temple Bay Mamallapuram, try the Welcomhotel by ITC Hotels, Kences Palm Beach for an upscale stay.
The Daphne Hotel and the Sea Breeze Beach Resort are perfect mid-range hotels for those on a budget.
Mahabalipuram is about 60 km by road from Chennai, the nearest airport and railhead. Bus services are available from Chennai and some other cities, such as Bengaluru and Coimbatore.
Mahabalipuram is small enough that you can explore many of its monuments and attractions on foot. Auto-rickshaws are widely available and a popular choice for both locals and tourists. You can easily negotiate with the drivers for short trips around the town.
Alternatively, you can rent a bicycle or a scooter for a fun and flexible way to explore the town at your own pace. There are several rental shops that offer these services.
The best time to visit Mahabalipuram is from November to February when the weather is pleasant.
Day 1: Visit the Shore Temple, a stunning eighth-century structure overlooking the Bay of Bengal. For lunch, head to the Searock Restaurant for seafood or try local vegetarian dishes like thali or Chettinad cuisine. Make your way to the Pancha Rathas and the Descent of the Ganges (Arjuna's Penance) after that. In the evening, dine at a beachside café for a relaxed atmosphere and a great sunset view.
Day 2: In the morning, visit the Cave Temples, including the Varaha Cave Temple. Head to the Krishna Mandapam and view the remarkable reliefs, including the famous Krishna's Butterball. Enjoy lunch at the Radisson Blu Resort, Temple Bay Mamallapuram, where you can enjoy a buffet with local dishes like Chettinad chicken curry, appam or kootu. Afterwards, head to the India Seashell Museum to explore over 40,000 specimens of rare seashells. In the evening, dine at the Moonrakers Restaurant for seafood by the beach.
Day 3: If you're up for an excursion, take a trip to Kancheepuram (1.5-hour drive). Visit its famous temples like Kailasanathar and Ekambareswarar. Don’t forget to shop for Kancheepuram silk sarees. Enjoy a traditional South Indian meal at a local restaurant and return to Mahabalipuram. Relax at the beach and enjoy the sunset. Have dinner at the MGM Beach Resort for a relaxed meal and a beautiful view of the coastline.
Rent a scooter or hire a local cab for easy transportation between sites. Walking is also great for short distances.
Pack light, breathable clothes. Don't forget sunscreen, sunglasses and a hat to shield from the sun.
Carry cash as many small shops may not accept cards. ATMs are available and UPI (Unified Payments Interface) is becoming increasingly widespread.
The coastal climate can be hot, so drink plenty of water.
While Mahabalipuram is tourist-friendly, be respectful of religious sites and local customs.
Enjoy local seafood but ensure it’s from reputable restaurants to avoid stomach issues.
Mahabalipuram is best known for its stunning UNESCO World Heritage monuments, including the Shore Temple, Pancha Rathas and the Descent of the Ganges (Arjuna's Penance). The town is famous for its fresh seafood, local delicacies like dosa and Chettinad cuisine, and its rich cultural heritage, showcased in temple carvings, dance performances and stone crafts.
Explore the iconic Shore Temple and Pancha Rathas, visit the cave temples and the Descent of the Ganges (Arjuna's Penance), and relax at the beautiful Mahabalipuram Beach. Don’t miss a cultural performance, a heritage walk through the town and a meal of local seafood or South Indian cuisine at one of the beachside restaurants.
Mahabalipuram is relatively affordable for Indian travellers, with budget-friendly accommodations, local eateries and transport options. While upscale hotels and fine dining can be pricier, there are plenty of budget options for food and lodging.
The best time to visit Mahabalipuram is between October and March when the weather is pleasant. During this period, you can also catch local festivals like Pongal (January) and the Indian Dance Festival (December–January), which showcase traditional arts and cultural performances.
Chettinad Chicken Curry – A flavourful, spicy dish from the Chettinad region. You can try it at Radisson Blu Resort, Temple Bay Mamallapuram or the Searock Restaurant.
Fish Fry And Seafood Platter – Fresh, local seafood served in coastal style. Head to Moonrakers Restaurant for this.
Mysore Masala Dosa – A crispy dosa with spicy chutneys and potato filling, perfect for breakfast. Hotel Mamalla Heritage offers an excellent version of this classic.
This story was originally published in February 2024. It has since been updated.